Warning: long and somewhat technical - in short, howstuffworks.com is wrong AND right. Read on if you dare.
I read the referenced reviews that say the devices work, and the analysis that says they don't work. I have some experience in designing IR transmitter/detector circuits and software. (If you're curious, I designed the laser gun electronics and software for this laser arcade system -
www.zombieworld.net). I'm absolutely no expert on the matter of LIDAR, but I have a few observations related to the howstuffworks.com article:
This is MOST important from howstuffworks.com:
"Is Jamming feasible? The
two techniques outlined here do not appear to be viable on technical grounds. Assumptions about these techniques are built into the descriptions below, and a
more $ophisticated jammer might work."
His argument that the power requirements of 12 watts exceed the capability of an LED. True if talking about continuous current flow. But if you pulse the power, you can increase the effective wattage. In simple terms, you may know that an LED requires 1.2 - 1.4 volts nominal and can burn out around 1.7 - 2 volts. But by pulsing the power, this can easily be exceeded. I run my infrared LED in the gun at 5 volts PULSED with a 20 ms square wave. Pulsing simply gives the diode junction time to cool off between light bursts. With proper component selection and changing the duration and duty cycle of the square wave you could go higher. Now use 6, 8, 10 LEDs and you increase your infrared light output power quite a bit. 12 LEDs at 1 watt each effective power is very doable.
He appears to assume the use of 1 LED for his calculations. Looking at the jammers, the units they call transceivers are much larger than what is required for a single LED. That is a rather large, expensive enclosure for a single LED. If you used 10 or 12 LEDs that would certainly fit in that enclosure, you COULD achieve the power levels he requires to blind the LIDAR. By using a simple plastic lens for each LED, you could further focus the beam down the road, further increasing effective power, and point some of it 2 or 3 degrees to the side.
I'm guessing that if you dissassembled one of the transceivers, that's what you would find inside - a more sophisticated LED arrayed unit, exceeding his basic assumptions.
This would also explain the difference between good units that work and cheaper units that have very limited range.....